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The lithium battery in the JR-347 (and JR-388) is replaceable with a small bit of work. If you don't mind losing your setups, the replacement is much easier. The original battery in the JR-347 & 388 is a "non-standard" 20mm 3volt lithium with non-standard solder tabs. I used a Panasonic BR2032-1HE (also available from Digi-Key P/N 196). Cost is around $2.00 to $2.50.
The main caveat is the fact that the lead centers on the Panasonic battery(s) does not match the solder tabs on the stock battery. Fortunately, the negative lead (-) can be bent in an "L" shape to match the lead center requirements. The next caveat is re-assembly of the transmitter case.
If you're still convinced that you'd rather do the battery replacement than JR, read ahead. Remove the rear case, nicad battery, and unplug the two connectors that attach the rear printed circuit board.
Facing the rear of the transmitter, with the case removed, look at the main pcb (located at the bottom of the case, directly behind the pushbuttons). Toward the left lower corner, you will notice a clear area on the circuit board approximately 1/2" x 1/2". At the top of the clear area is the marking "L1". The lithium battery is directly behind this clear pcb area.
The negative lead is soldered through the hole that is above and slightly to the left of the lower left case bolt hole.
The positive lead is soldered through the pcb directly above the marking "L1" (it is horizontally elongated).
Using solder wick or a de-soldering tool, remove the solder. One single bolt holds the main circuit board in place and is located at the top center. remove the screw and get ready for the pushbottons and their springs to fall out. Carefully lift the board, pivoting up from the bottom. You can now see the battery. Remove it and carefully insert the new, re-shaped lead battery, OBSERVING THE PROPER POLARITY (BTW, there is a blocking diode and if you know what that means, then you'll skip past the warning
). Quickly solder the tabs in position.
Bolt the main pcb back in place *without* trying to insert the springs or buttons. Remove the left and right side phillips head screw on the transmitter faceplate. Next remove the (8) allen socket screws in the faceplate and finally, remove the three switch bezels, AUX2 knob and brass bezel below it. The faceplate can now be removed. Install the springs on the main pcb switch posts and the switch caps on top of the springs. CAREFULLY line up the faceplate and lower it into position. Use a toothpick or some non-scratching pointed object to drift the switch caps into their respective openings. When properly seated, re-install all of the screws, bezels and knob. Plug the rear pcb connectors into the main pcb. Bolt the case halves together and re-connect the nicad battery.
If you are very brave, daring or dumb, and you wish not to lose your existing setups, you can solder a second lithium across the existing lithium (solder negative lead to the black wire junction left of clear pcb area and the positive lead to the solder junction immediately to the right of the elongated plus lead of the existing lithium). Unsolder the existing battery and install the new cell. Remove the second lithium when done.
